May 12, 2004

  • Friday, May 7, 2004 - Haleakela (Maui)
    ride report by Glenn Hunter

    I awake at 3:50 AM on Friday,
    May 7, 2004
    , and shut off the alarm 10 minutes before it
    rings.  I might get out of here without
    waking up my wife, Bun-a.  (We are in Hawaii
    celebrating our 25th anniversary.) 
    She knows how much I love to ride and is glad to have me leave for most
    of this day while she lounges around the pool and beach.  I have prepared for the climb but now that is
    the least of my concerns.  The wind, even
    at sea level, has not dropped below 20 mph all week and there has been heavy
    rain daily in the uplands.

    It is time for the rubber to
    hit the road.  I quietly get dressed,
    grab a piece of left over pizza for breakfast, and the few remaining items that
    have not already been packed in the car the night before.  As I head to the door Bun-a says “Have a nice
    ride.”  I should know after 25 years that
    it is not possible to leave without waking her up!  Her words “nice ride” stick in my head.  I have been thinking about this as a sufferfest
    but decide to take it easy, enjoy it and have a “nice ride” no matter what the
    conditions.

    Daylight emerges as I drive
    across the island.  Much to my surprise I
    can see the top of Haleakela for the first time.  A few small clouds surround the vast expanse
    of this volcano and it is an impressive sight! 
    Also, for the first time all week, there is no wind!  I begin to get excited and congratulate
    myself on choosing today to make this climb. 
    I recall the weather report for afternoon showers and decide it is too
    early to celebrate.

    A power line is down and the
    road to Haiku on the north side of the island is closed.  I get lost on the detour and quickly loose 40
    minutes.  I finally get to Haiku, make a
    final check of my gear and head south on Kokomo Road
    at 6:45 AM.  The 6% grade and suffering starts
    immediately.  The road is winding, damp
    and narrow.  The temperature is about 80
    and the humidity is high, but the early morning shade from the trees keeps it
    comfortable.  On the first 10 miles to
    Makawao there is a steady stream of cars and trucks traveling well above the 25
    mph speed limit and passing very close to me. 
    I am shouted at and almost run off the road several times.  Perhaps “Aloha” is just part of an earlier
    culture that is carefully maintained in the resorts for the tourists.  My observation is that attitudes in “real
    world” Hawaii are about like
    anywhere else.  Had I left at 6 AM as planned, my experience likely would have
    been much better.

    The temperature has reached 90
    as I pass through Makawau and the humidity is close to 100%.  After a few miles I turn left on Haleakela
    Highway
    (State Rt 377).  This road has great pavement, a nice bike
    lane and, to my surprise, light traffic! 
    I am into my energy conservation mode, a slow steady comfortable climb,
    heartrate between 150 and 170 and feeling good. 
    Between 2000’ and 3000’ elevation, there are lush green pastures with
    grazing livestock.  The sugar cane fields
    of the central plain of Maui and the ocean beyond are visible.  Strange tropical birds are singing beautiful
    songs.  The summit is in sight and looks
    deceptively close, maybe 10 miles away but there are about 25 miles of
    switchbacks remaining.  It is quiet
    except for the occasional cars, tourist buses and bike tour vans going up the
    mountain.  Several downhill bike groups
    pass in the opposite direction.  A few
    good natured comments are exchanged as we pass. 
    So far I have not seen any other bikers going uphill.

    I make a left on Rt 378, the
    final road to the National Park and summit. 
    Mile marker 0 is at this intersection (elev. ± 3500’) and the summit is
    at mile 22.  There seem to be an endless
    number of switchbacks between these two points. 
    Every mile is marked as a constant reminder of how much suffering
    remains.  The clouds are thickening and
    the temperature is cooling as I pass 4000 feet. 
    I am feeling the effects of not riding for almost 2 weeks.  My right knee is weak and my butt hurts.  After a stop to stretch my legs and eat I
    feel much better.  At about 5000 feet I
    enter the clouds and a steady drizzle begins. 
    The temperature is cooling but I am still almost comfortable in my shirt
    that is now soaked with rain instead of sweat. 
    Staying in the lowest gear I patiently continue climbing.

    At about 5900 feet a van from
    the shop where I rented my bike passes and stops at a turnout.  Because of the weather, the group has decided
    to use a lower staging area than normal to start their downhill ride.  I stop and talk with the group.  My offer for anyone to join me going uphill
    is unanimously and politely declined. 
    The group leader indicates that he saw Theresa (who works in the bike
    shop) riding uphill just a few minutes behind me.  She arrives shortly but is cold and wet and
    elects to ride down in the van.  After a
    stretch and power bar I am back on the long and winding road.

    A few miles later I reach the
    park entrance and pay the $5 fee required to continue this suffering.  The ranger informs me that I can return as
    many times as I want within the next week without paying again.  I assure her that will not be happening!  Suddenly a biker on about $4000 of Trek
    carbon blows by the park gate, wishing me well and indicating that he will see
    me at the top.  The ranger calls out
    telling him to stop and pay the entrance fee. 
    He circles back saying he has no money with him and to get it from his
    wife who will be coming through in a white Ford Expedition soon.  He heads back uphill disappearing quickly
    into the fog as the ranger makes a note. 
    He is using all his whupass on the climb and will be getting a ride
    downhill.  I need to save some energy for
    the return trip and quickly dismiss the thought of riding with this guy.

    A short distance later, at
    about 7000’ I reach the park entrance visitor center, use the facilities,
    refill with water, eat another power bar and enjoy a stretch.  I am cold and the drizzle is getting heavier
    so I put on the raincoat.  After a short
    distance the sun comes out and I begin overheating.  The raincoat is removed and immediately the
    drizzle returns and the temperature drops. 
    I decide clothing changes are futile and keep going.

    Between 8000’ and 9000’ I pass
    mile markers 15 through 18 and the excitement builds because the summit is
    within reach and I will make it!  While
    stopped for another snack and stretch before the final assault, a white Ford
    Expedition (which is wider than some of the roads here) heading downhill
    stops for a chat.  It is my buddy with
    the Trek!  He informs me that he did this
    “world class” climb in 3 hours, blah blah minutes and blah blah seconds.  I congratulate him and he asks me what my
    time is.  I quickly subtract a couple of
    hours for food, stretch, bathroom and clothing stops and mumble an impressive
    number that is a little higher than his time. 
    He asks me where I am from.  Colorado
    is my reply.  He informs me that his
    trainer, so and so, is from Colorado.  I do not recognize the name although I’m sure
    that I should.  I act impressed and let
    him know that my trainer, Steve Douglas, is also from Colorado
    but used to live in New Jersey.  He looked impressed, offered a few words of
    encouragement about how close I am to the summit and we parted ways.

    The terrain here is mostly
    black volcanic rock and gravel flows with a few scrubby bushes.  There are a few cars and tour busses but
    otherwise it is quiet and eerily beautiful in the fog and drizzle.  There is still no wind!  At about mile 21 I reach the upper visitor
    center.  There is a sign pointing right
    to the summit.  I continue on for the
    final switchbacks that are noticeably steeper than the previous ones.  I am pretty well spent but manage to keep the
    bike moving uphill.  The drizzle stops as
    I finally reach the 10,023’ summit above the clouds.  Some of the rim is visible but most of the 6
    mile long crater is hidden in the clouds below. 
    I have a conversation with some tourists from Vancouver
    while waiting for the clouds to clear. 
    Within minutes the clouds rise, the temperature drops to 48, the wind
    picks up and steady rain begins.  I
    quickly put on leg warmers, toe warmers and raincoat for the descent.

    I am cold and the rain gets
    heavier during the descent.  Rivers of
    muddy water are flowing down the side of the road.  In some places water is flowing 1 - 2 inches
    deep across the road.  Visibility is
    about 50 feet in the fog and I struggle to see through my rain-smeared
    glasses.  I notice car lights in my
    mirror and slow to let 2 cars pass.  I
    take the full lane and follow them for 10 miles to the lower visitor center.  Their tail lights and brake lights help me
    with braking, timing and controlling speed on the curves.  By following them I am able to go faster and
    have more fun!  While warming up at the
    visitor center, I meet another biker from Colorado Springs
    who has driven up but decided not to ride because of the conditions.  He offers me some power bars which I
    graciously accept since I have eaten all of my food and the park service has
    not figured out that they could sell overpriced snacks to hungry bikers and
    tourists.

    The remaining 25 miles are
    fast, fun and uneventful.  The rain stops
    around 3000 feet and it gets much warmer. 
    Entering Haiku I briefly consider riding the mellow 3 miles down to sea
    level and back.  This idea is quickly
    dismissed in favor of returning to vacation mode.  I return the bike to the bike shop and am
    congratulated by Thomas and Debra who are working there.  I apologize for the dirty condition of the
    bike but they do not seem to mind. 
    Riding in the rain is not so bad when you don’t have to clean the bike!

    I thank God to be alive and
    healthy enough to enjoy such a thrilling ride. 
    This is one “nice ride” that I will never forget!

    Statistics:

    Distance:                      About 75 miles

    Ride time (ascent):        5 hr 45 min (No record here…Don’t laugh
    Peter.)

    Ride time (descent):      1 hr 20 min (Don’t laugh Kent.)

    Average speed: About 10.6 mph

    Total vertical ascent:     9820 feet

    Calories:                      
    5080

    Temperature range:       48 F – 92 F